Review: New Restaurant ‘Intrepid’ At Princess
[Written by Mikaela Ian Pearman]
With the culinary scene being as small as it is in Bermuda, it’s always exciting when a new restaurant opens. And when that restaurant is high end with incredible food and service, it’s exhilarating.
Over the weekend, I had the opportunity to visit the new restaurant at Hamilton Princess, Intrepid. I was a huge fan of Marcus’ over the years so was disappointed when that closed.
But, once I heard about the new restaurant concept, I was intrigued. And even more so when I saw the menu and read about the head chef. Needless to say, my expectations were very high.
In case you haven’t heard of Intrepid, it’s an upscale steak, seafood and raw bar restaurant, offering a contemporary twist on the classic American grill for a refined dining experience. The restaurant is spearheaded by the hotel’s new Executive Chef de Cuisine, Antwan Ellis.
Let’s start at the beginning. I arrived a few minutes late and was escorted to my table where I was offered water while I waited for my date to arrive. While I waited, I perused the cocktail and wine lists as well as the full menu. And it’s a full menu – appetizers, salads, raw bar, sushi, steaks, sides, desserts and more.
When my date arrived, our server Jaswyn ran us through the menu and made drink recommendations: Princess 75 with The Botanist Gin, Guava, Fresh Lemon, Moët Chandon Rosé for my date, Hand-Shaken Hibiscus Daiquiri Hibiscus Infused Bacardi Superior Rum Fresh Pressed Lime, Pure Cane Lavender Bitters, Served Up for me. We took him up on his offers and read through the menu while we waited.
I decided ahead of time that I would just enjoy whatever my server recommended instead of choosing my own dishes. I can be indecisive and I honestly wanted to just sit there and have food arrive for me to enjoy.
While sipping our excellent drinks, we ordered our food. For appetizers, we enjoyed Oyster Rockefeller with bernaise, spinach and herbs, Lump Crab Cake with Jumbo Lump Crab and Cajun Remoulade and Broccoli Tempura with spicy aioli.
I haven’t had oysters in years and these were excellent to say the least. Super fresh with great flavour and a decadent bite. The crab cake was mostly crab with very little filler, exactly as they should be. The remoulade added some nice spice to the dish. The tempura was perfectly fried and honestly an unexpectedly excellent veggie dish.
By now, we had moved from cocktails to a wonderful bottle of pinot noir recommended by Jaswyn: Belle Glos Pinot Noir. And then the main courses came: Organic King Salmon with Crab Quinoa, Navel Orange and Fennel for my date and 12oz CAB Ribeye with Chimichurri for me. We also enjoyed Roasted Spicy Broccolini, Smoke-House Mac & Cheese with Lobster and Potato Gratin for our sides.
I haven’t had a ribeye in years and this was the perfect reintroduction to such an excellent cut of steak. It had so much flavour that it didn’t even need the sauce. Truly incredible.
As for the sides, the potato gratin was my favourite with the mac and cheese a close second. Potato Gratin is something I make at home and always order if it’s on the menu. It was decadent and creamy and a dish I will order everytime I dine here. The mac and cheese was smokey and creamy and the lobster just elevated it.
Now, you’d think we’d be full, but we had to sample the dessert menu. The Gosling’s Black Seal Bread Pudding with Toasted Butter Crumb, Princess Rum Sauce was recommended for me. I was worried about it being heavy but the bread pudding was so light thanks to its croissant base. The bread crumbs added great texture and the rum sauce is something I could eat by the spoon. A winner of a dessert for sure.
At the end, Chef Antwan came and chatted with us about the meal, which was a very nice touch.
Overall, Intrepid was an excellent dining experience. If you haven’t been, I highly recommend making a reservation to check it out this weekend. It has a bit of something for everyone whether you’re into seafood, love a great steak or are a raw bar kind of person. Plus, the vibe is so sexy and modern so you’re getting an amazing experience, great service and awesome food.
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