Review: Burnaby Street’s Hog Penny Pub
[Written by Dale Butler]
Located on 5 Burnaby Street, Hog Penny is Hamilton’s oldest licensed pub and the original inspiration for the Cheers Pub [Bull and Finch] in Boston. This was confirmed with the Cheers Pub owner Tom Kershaw, who visited Bermuda in the 1960s and modeled the Bull and Finch [Now the Cheers Pub and the pub in Boston that inspired the TV Show.] Another example of Bermuda making its mark.
With 61 years of service under its belt and a host of rave reviews it was never on my radar, but it certainly is now.
The evening began with a very professional and warm response to my request for a reservation when I was not put on hold. Upon arrival I was greeted, seated, and then following that a waiter attended my table with a menu.
Alex, our waiter, was knowledgeable about the food and drinks menus, and quite personable and patient when we asked questions. I was impressed with unique drinks like:
- Dark ‘N’ Stormy Mojito
- Three Little Birds
The menu is eye-catching re the wide selection of traditional pub fare: bangers and mash, steak and kidney pie and shepherd’s pie, etc, and I was told their most popular dishes are Dark and Stormy rockfish, roast prime of beer, chicken pot pie, steak and kidney pie, and chicken bhuna masala, but our attention was drawn to the Dark and Stormy rockfish, described in a way that was oh, so tempting, but we decided to leave it for a future visit.
Desperate for onion soup, I immediately relaxed when I saw this classic on the menu, an item no longer popular in Bermuda like it used to be for us “Onions”. It was delicious. The menu is magnetic because the choices are all very tempting and of good value. In the end, we chose the “Winterlicious Dine Around” three-course meal which had been well-advertised.
With 20 years under my belt, and married to a chef, I was able to sample her menu items served, as indeed she sampled mine per the following:
The griddle seared beef skewer was colourfully plated, and the two skewers were tender and cooked to perfection with an appetizing sweet soy sauce.
The prawn ceviche with avocado and cherry tomato on a bed of mixed greens was an additional highlight. All greens were very fresh and vibrant as though they had just been picked.
Our main courses also scored high return points:
Chicken parmigiana tasted scrumptious, the fries were greaseless and a winner along with the sautéed vegetables that were fresh and tasty. It was interesting to note that we rarely eat fries, but they disappeared in a jiffy, without locals’ custom of catsup dunking or the British malt vinegar and salt plastering. They stood at attention on their own.
I usually have a steak once or twice a year but gave up a year ago because they often lacked taste here and overseas. Ah, should I do the grilled Cajun wahoo or the savory pork goulash? No, I took a chance and asked for the seared New York steak. I was not disappointed. Cooked exactly how I asked for it, I savored the smell as Alex approached the table. Need I say that, like the first course, the plates went back empty?
With barely a break, we asked for a glass of Port [excellent] and our desserts. The coconut meringue pie slices were much smaller than what one usually gets, but after the first two courses the serving sizes were perfect. Each bite was delicious and I wasn’t allowed to have any more. I never partook of the fruit graham cracker cake and was not disappointed. It was the icing on the cake making the night a complete success.
With outstanding service and excellent food and wine, I can appreciate how the Hog Penny Pub & Restaurant has lasted 66 years.
On Friday nights you can witness a great performance by entertainer Gary Foster Skelton at 10 p.m. and on Saturdays Ben Payne, a great guitarist and saxophonist. Yes, they have been my favorite entertainers for a while. Commendations to the kitchen’s Head Chef at Hog Penny Peter Brown, Manager Lucian Marele and his support staff and to Alex, our waiter, who never missed a beat and who remains just as personable today as he was, when a waiter, at another establishment years ago.
Recently constructed has been an outdoor wooden deck on Burnaby Hill offering patrons a view of Hamilton Harbour. They cater and also have delivery via the Sargasso app.
Hog Penny is a part of the Island Restaurant Group Ltd and its Executive Chef is Jonny Roberts. You can call or book your table at Island Restaurant Group. Lunch is 12 p.m. to 3 p.m., dinner 5 p.m to 10 p.m with the bar open 12 noon to midnight or later.
- Dale Butler writes regular reviews for Bernews [music, restaurant and books] and can be contacted at daledbutler@gmail.com or 595-9841.
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